Saturday, October 4, 2008

Farewell Greece

With a heavy heart and deep sighs all round we leave Greece. We had a fleeting thought of staying another week and making our way to Kastelorizo after all, but it is a pipe dream to keep us from reality just a little longer. In about an hour we will leave for the airport. Manny is trying to get Cassie to sleep upstairs in the hotel room while I type this downstairs. We've just returned from an hour in the big church square where Cassie chased pigeons so we could tire her out. Let's hope the plan works!

Yesterday we walked around Athens for hours and found our way to amazing ancient ruins of Agora. It is a massive area in the foothills of the Acropolis with so many statues and buildings dating back to the 4th centuray BC. It must also be the most peaceful place in Athens and we enjoyed some time there in the quiet taking in the majesty of our surroundings. We had our last few gyros (lamb and chicken in pita bread with tzatsiki, tomatoe and onions), and treated Cassie to an icecream cone (she loves the waffle cones but doesn't care much for the ice cream) before bed.

This morning was a final dash into the Plaka so Manny could buy the particular variety of worry beads he likes. Athens is still heaving despite it being October and the end of the tourism season. I think it's now many Greeks who come to the capital after their own busy season has finished. The number of people eating out at the plaka last night was amazing - thousands, enjoying the final warm evenings before the weather really changes.

We are looking forward to being home and to seeing everyone, especially Sarah tomorrow night, who will share in our stories and gifts before anyone else. We spoke to her just now, as well as Meghan who is in Pisa and will travel to Venice tomorrow. She too has been regaling us with stories of the food she has eaten, so it seems a strict diet all round when life gets back to normal in Perth.

This is the final post so thank you to everyone has followed our trip and left comments which have entertained us and reminded us of home.

We look forward to seeing you in the coming days and weeks

Manny, Sue and Cassie

Friday, October 3, 2008

St George 500 Year Old Monastry.











My long lost cousin Dimitri Papadoulis


More pics





























These images include one of St George Monastry on the way to Kritsa, one of Maria, Sue, Cassie and Mareka before lunch at Mareka's house, one of Mareka, Maria and Yanni, one of the street on Kroustas where we bought freshly shelled almonds from the women on the street (that's Yianna doing a deal), a view of Kritsa from the winding mountain road to Kroustas, and two more of Cassie and the narrow roads of Kritsa (similar to the ones on Koutouloufari - I have no idea how Sue drove the car!).

More images of Kritsa and the friendly people we met
















I am in Athens and they have free wi-fi internet around the main square of the city. So as long as the computer battery lasts I can up load some photos.
By the way did I tell you i hate Greek taxi drivers!!!
The photos include Cassie and the typical blue Greek village door, a view of Kritsa to the ocean, inside the church we attended on Sunday, a linen selling woman who turned out to be a distant cousin by marriage, and the friendly old Yia Yia who's daughter owned the pensione we stayed in and who took a liking to Cassie (Cassie was undecided...)

Farewell to Crete, Yasoo Athens

We have returned to the craziness of Athens and find ourselves immediately pining for the relaxed way of life in Crete. Our farewell dinner at Yanni and Maria's was fantastic. I think Maria must have cooked all day although she insists she didn't. We had lamb slow baked in a huge earthenware pot, the most delicious potatoes I have ever tasted brought from Aris' (son in law) father's village and cooked in herbs (alas, despite several hints from me the recipe was not forthcoming...we probably have to move to Koutouloufari before any family recipes are passed on), pasticio (like mousaka but with macaroni pasta), Greek salad, cheese, and stuffed tomatoes with rice. Desert was a cream and custard pie made by Maria. The conversation and wine flowed easily and we loved being part of the family in their own home. Maria's cousin, husband and daughter Cleopatra joined us as well and Manny tried in vain to arrange her marriage to one of our single Greek friends in Perth! Yanni's house is beautiful with stunning views over Hersonisis and the ocean. It is built on the hillside and enjoys cooling sea breezes. Yanni and Maria live in a 4 bedroom 2 bathroom house downstairs, while upstairs their daughter Sofia, her husband Aris and daughter Maria live in an identical building, as is the Greek way! Makes for easy babysitting and close family ties.

Cassie and I left around 9pm so Cassie could get to bed ahead of our flight to Athens, while Manny stayed another hour or so and enjoyed some more raki and wine from Chania. He was quite sad on his return - we both felt so welcomed and part of the family so it was an emotional farewell. We really do hope the children come to visit us one day.

And so to Athens. The flight from Crete was fine, although it was a small plane and Cassie wasn't fond of the take off. She adjusted quickly to the noise and was fine on landing. We found our luggage and a taxi and were feeling rather pleased with ourselves for the lack of drama on the journey, when things took a strange turn, well actually the taxi took a strange turn. We were stuck in traffic for about 15 minutes when the driver announced that there was a demonstration in Syntagma square (central Athens) and the road had been closed. He told us that no cars were able to drive to the road of our hotel and the best he could do was drop us a short walk away. He promised it was the only solution and that the walk was less than 300 metres. We believed him of course as we had no reason not to. So, we set off - Manny lugging a suitcase on wheels, as well as Cassie's 15kg bag over his shoulder, along with another 3 hand luggage pieces. I pushed Cassie in the pram with my suitcase on wheels pulled behind me, and our hand luggage strapped to the pram. What a sight we must have made - trapsing down the footpath, the suitcases unsteady and us both breaking into a hot and bothered sweat. I had previously noticed the lack of ramps on road crossings having dealt with the pram on our last visit, but the constant small and not so small steps, pot holes and uneven surfaces really came into their own on this journey. We made it across Syntagma Square only to find cars driving on the other side with no problem. It seemed our taxi driver had merely become bored of waiting in the traffic and decided to kick us out! We asked about the location of our hotel at the first hotel we came to, but they shrugged their shoulders in ignorance. When Manny asked the door man at the next 5 star hotel and he also dismissed us, my temper flared. I spat every word of Greek I could come up with at him, telling his his taxi drivers were the worst in the world and we had been left stranded with 60kg of luggage and a baby and no one to help us. He quickly ran off and found someone who suddenly did know where our hotel was and who offered to store our luggage to make our journey easier. I declined his offer and thanked him for his assistance (albeit delayed). We walked another 2 or 3 blocks, asking for more directions, struggling with wheels up footpaths and steps, crazy scooter drivers and unforgiving pedestrains who push their way through regardless, until we found our hotel - probably about a kilometre from where the taxi left us. Red-faced and panting we checked in. Thank goodness everyone at the hotel was incredibly helpful, taking our bags, giving us a free drink at the bar and doing their best to help us recover from our ordeal.

So, welcome back to Athens! Afterwards, lying in the cool of the hotel room, I laughed hard at our experience, but Manny is yet to see the funny side (give him a few more days I think). We had dinner in the plaka last night and this morning picked up a few more souveniers. We also found our way in to the seedier part of town to the fresh fruit markets and stalls selling dried beans, herbs and all manner of produce. We found what must be the biggest church in Athens and marvelled at the fresco paintings and massive icons. We have also found an icon shop and hope to order some when we get home including one of Saint Susannah which can't be found in Australia. Tonight will no doubt be another plaka dinner before heading to the airport tomorrow.

It has been a wonderful experience and the time spent in Crete with family made the travelling worthwhile. I'm pleased we decided to give up the trip to Kastelorizo, and we know now how we'll plan things next time. Manny will no doubt upload some final photos before we leave. We are looking forward to coming home - we'll be there around 3.30pm on Sunday.
love
Sue, Manny and Cassie

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

the long lost cousin

Yasoo

Happy birthday to Meghan! We spoke to her today in Italy - now a 15 year old! She is having a fantastic time despite having a cold. We sang happy birthday to her most of the way home in the car today in her honour (and to keep Cassie entertained...) We miss Meg and Sarah heaps. Sarah is in Sydney and has been experiencing jewish traditions with some friends there - we look forward to hearing all about it!

We are back from Kritsa and enjoying our last few days in Crete. We are leaving Crete on Thursday to spend 2 nights in Athens and break up the journey to Australia. It feels like the end of the holiday and the end of summer (deep sigh...) as the days start to cool and the sun is weakening. The village is slowly emptying and our hotel will close in 2 weeks. At least there are some bargains in the shops! I hope everyone is in need of some hand woven linen because we have a suitcase full.....

Our weekend in Kritsa was a definite highlight. It was so nice to be in the mountains where time seems slow and everyone has a smile and a 'kali mera' (good morning) for you - some even say it first! The lunch in the village of Kroustas with Yanni, Maria and Yanni's cousin Mareka was superb. The goat was truly amazing - Manny's right, it did taste of all kinds of herbs but perhaps that's because goats here are fattened on wild herbs in the mountains. We started the meal with goats cheese, bread and dolmades (some wild vegetable stuffed with rice abnd herbs) and then mountainous plates of pasta and goat. It was more than filling, all washed down with local red wine. The villagers were pleased to see us - the old women on the streets gave Cassie freshly cracked almonds, and one lady even ran inside and returned with a bag of spanikoptia (spinach pie), cheese, bread and cashew nuts for her when she understood that we were Papadoulis from Australia. Cassie thought it was great - and ate had more than her share of nuts and other goodies. She enjoyed a three hour sleep afterwards, and somehow we managed to eat a little more at dinner.

We left Kritsa a little slowly, wishing we could stay longer (although Manny was relieved that we were away from the linen shops!) and were already making plans to return in a few years. We hadn't met any Papadoulis' although we knew they lived in the town. Not to worry, we would track them down another time. Manny bought a wooden chess set from a shop selling goods made from olive wood. When we returned to Koutoulafari I opened the bag and saw the business card in the bottom - and the name on it was Dimitri Papadoulis! Manny had been into that shop several times and had left it to the last minute to buy the chess set - from the only English woman in town who had a job there. She was probably the only person we hadn't told our name, and now we'ded discover the shop owner is a Papadoulis. The woman had told us it was her day off the following day, so perhaps Dimitri would be working in her place? We decided to return one last time this morning in the hope of to meet Dimitri.

We left early, stopping on the way at the 500 year old monastry of Saint George which sits on the mountain side with spectacular views to the ocean. We arrived in Kritsa around 10am, only to find the wood shop closed! We went for a coffee (and bought another table cloth!) and then found the shop had opened soon after. Dimitri is related - he is tall and said all the Papadoulis' were tall people (perhaps this is where Manny, Meg and Sarah get their height from?) and with blue eyes (now this must be where Bapou gets his pale blue eyes from!). He is 39 and has one brother, but other siblings died as children. His father is still alive and he is going to ask about the family so we can complete more of the family tree. He was genuinely pleased to meet us and wished we had found him earlier so he could spend more time. We have exchanged email addresses so hopefully this is the start of ongoing contact. It was so nice to have found some family - and wonderful to see Manny so excited about tracking down a long lost cousin!

So now we are winding down towards home. We have taken back the car hire so are walking everywhere, which is fine as everything in the village is nearby. Tomorrow night we are going to Yanni and Maria's place for a farewell dinner. They have been more than generous and we look forward to welcoming their children to Australia sometime in the future. Maria won't fly so Yanni and Maria won't make it to Australia, but their children are talking seriously about making the trip, which would be fantastic. We have some serious hospitality to provide!

It is such a shame to leave when we are feeling so at home. Cassie is into a wonderful Hellenic routine of sleeping until late in the afternoon (in fact we all are!), allowing us time in the evening to enjoy dinner out. She is often into bed around 9pm, so it may take some re-training when we return to get her back into the Perth way of things.

Thanks for all the comments - keep them coming!
Sue, Manny and Cassie

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Sunday In Kritsa

Wow what a day................

We decided to go to Church today. Yesterday we went to the Church and introduced ourselves to the Priest. We asked what time church was and he said between 7-9 am. We woke late at 8:00am but were in church by 8:30. I thought we would catch the last half hour. However we werent late as Church didnt finish until 10:00am!. The priets had sold us the dummy!!

Inside there were around 50 people. There were 5 men including the priest and the rest were old women. Sue would have been the youngest lady, besides a young family who came late and had obviously christen their child recently and took communion.

Afterwards we walked straight accross the road and had a coffee. Eventually the priest came and had coffee in the same coffee shop.

Around 11:00am Yanni and Maria arrived and we went to Yanni's cousin place Maria. She has a beautiful house over looking the village right at the top of the mountain. She came with us to lunch in the next village. The next village has not been touched by tourism at all and is very tradional. Old ladies sit in the streets and crack almonds open. Old men sit and play backgammon. Yanni told us how they live very simple lives and have a few goats, grow their own vegetables or go into the mountians and pick wild fruit( apple and pears). I foget the name of the village but will post it tommorow night when I find out.

It was in this village that we had this amazing goat for lunch. What they do is boil the goat and then bring the goat on a plate. With the broth they boil up rough pieces of pasta and then finish it with a cheese( which no one would tell me the name off) . As you eat the pieces of goat you also enjoy the pasta coated with cheese).... I asked Yanni if the water had herbs in it but he insisted it was just salty water. The flavour of the goat was amazing and I am sure their were herbs in the water. However Yanni kept insisting it was good goat. He believes that we wouldnt have goat like this in Australia. I think he is probably right. However I am sure it was flavoured with herbs............oh well we will never know. Suffice to say it was an amazing and special meal. The village was a very special place further up the mountains in a little valley of sorts. I can not describe it better and hopefully Sue will be able to describe it better for you later.

After we went back to Kritsa and Yanni drove around and showed me old Papadoulis houses and where he grew up. I met a man who would have been 70/80 who operated the oldest coffee shop in Krista. Before him his grandmother use to run it!!...He told me that anyone who knew anything about our Papadoulis family had long since passed away. The Papadoulis in the village cant remember much passed their own parents and they certianly dont know anything about their great grandparents. I am going to have to return and spend some time here ( like a month) and go through the births/deaths register of the village to be able to complete the family tree.

After lunch Yanni returned home and I had a sleep with Cassiana.Sue went for a walk through the village.

This evening we went out and had a few mezzi ( light snacks) as we had such a big lunch.

That was our day today. Tommorrow I will place some photos.

It has been raining all afternoon and cloud has almost covered the village. We are in the heavens here.

Good Night from Kritsa

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Saturday in Kritsa

It is Saturday night in Kritsa and I have been given the duty of writing the post.
Sue is too tired. It was a long day today. We were up early to pack and then we caught the last quater of the AFL grand final at around 8:30am. We then left for Kritsa in the pouring rain. It was diffficult driving, which Sue handle very well. Sue will not let me drive since she has had more experience than I at Eurpoean left drive.

Arriving in Kritsa it was wet and a little cold but then the sun came out in the late afternoon. We went and visted a number of Churches and while Cassi and Sue slept I visted a few tavernas!!!!.
We went to the "Papadoulis Tavern" tonight but it dosnt belong to the Papadoulis family any more. That was a dissappointment but the food nevertheless was sensational.

Back to our rent room and we have had a few ouzos with the family that own the house.

Sue has gone to bed an another day is over. Tommorrow we will go with Yanni to the next village.

Good Night from Kritsa.

Love to all

Manny Sue Cassiana.

PS Theo great to speak to you this afternoon. Enjoy Lamonts!!

Kritsa: Sue and Cassie Sleep

We have seemed to have got into a pattern of a 3 hour sleep in the afternoon. Cassi and Sue are sleeping right now and I am sitting in a Taverna typing this post. We went shopping this morning and Sue bought half the village. kritsa is famous for its hannd woven table cloths and we bought a few for home.

The village knows that there is a Papadoulis in town as when I sat down the man asked if I was the Papadoulis from Australia. News spreads here faster than the internet. Speaking of interent I have a faint signal so hopefully I will be able to send this post.

I had my little emotional moment just a little while ago. Just thinking that my grandfather walked these streets and how well the Papadoulis are known in the village. Although tourist are here they only come for day trips. There is no major hotel here so it is not yet spoilt. I think the tour buses come here because it is the last true Creten village. Hopefully Sue will write up a post when she wakes up.

Keep the comments coming we love reading them and it makes the effort of getting on line and up loading photos worth while.

Leah and Les we got to buy a house here!!.....Although apprently there is a block of land that belonged to Bapou which no one has claimed. I will do the research.

Les and Matt the Raki here is sensational.....I will bring some home !!!!!! The mix it with honey and some herbs...mmmmmmmmmmm

Got to go

Love to all

Friday, September 26, 2008

Kritsa Photos
















More Kritsa


It was great to return to Kritsa. It has been 18 years since the last time I visted. Discovering the "Papadoulis Tavern" a couple of kilometres before the village was a treat. When you look at the photo of the lady and the donkey you can see the sign in the background for those that can read Greek.


On Sunday as Sue mentioned we are going to the restuarant that is in the next village. Yanni told me they make this special dish from the baking juices of roasted goat. You can not get this meal anywhere else in Greece, which means you cant get it any where else in the world.!! Yanni was licking his lips desribing it to me and my mouth started to water. The meal is cooked by these old ladies in the next village beyond Kritsa. I asked Yanni if I could get the recipe he just laughed at me. Only a few old ladies know the recipe and I get the felling they maybe taking it to their graves.


I wish you could smell the scents in the country. It is like a bowl of fresh herbs because the herbs are growing wild along the road sides and in the hills. Every shop we walk into in Kritsa know the Papadoulis family. It will be fun going to Church on Sunday.

Kritsa is the oldest village in Crete and has records of people living in the same place for over 3000 years. It is a funny shaped village and looking down from the sky it looks like the shape of a scorpian. The Creten people are very proud but the people from Kritsa seem to be the proudest and very independant. They live long in Kritsa. We saw a man who looked like he was at least in his 90's walking up the hill with a gas bottle on his back. The lady in the shop said to me " his Grandfather must have sent him to get some gas"

They have a sense of humour as well.


Kritsa

It's mid afternoon, Manny and Cassie are sleeping while I've been lying by the pool. Another lazy day in Hellenic paradise. Yesterday morning we left early for Kritsa, the village of Manny's grandfather (Ayious Nicholas is the larger port city while Krista is the village). It was a cloudy drive through the mountains. The village is beautiful, bigger than I imagined, but so charming with its steep cobble stoned winding roads, small shops selling hand made linen, at least four churches that we counted, and a traditional way of life - old women carrying goods by donkey, old men carrying produce on their backs. We stayed only a short while, but have booked a room in a white-washed pensione overlooking the valley thick with olive trees for tomorrow and Sunday nights. I can't wait to return and go exploring. We are also planning on going to church on Sunday morning - but to which church?!

Yanni and Maria are meeting us in Kritsa on Sunday morning around 11am to take us to the next village for lunch. They know of a very good taverna offering nothing but traditional Cretan food so we will try it. It's so wonderful to have family here who love to take us to these out of the way places we would never find otherwise. Of course we also want to sample Papadoulis Taverna just before Kritsa! Manny has a photo of the sign with one of the villagers standing in front - which he will upload.

After we returned to Koutouloufari (the village of our hotel) we slept and then went down to the port of Hersonnisis for an early dinner. The highlight of this meal was saganaki (fried cheese), but the calamari and dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) were also excellent, not to mention Cassie's favourite Tzatsiki. This morning we returned to the waterfront for coffee and this afternoon we plan to explore another nearby village which is home to Aris, Yanni's son in law. I'm becoming adept at driving the narrow roads built pre car when donkeys carrying hay bales were the widest thing to use them. Yesterday a Greek woman drove into our path and then waited for us to reverse out of her way, only we couldn't because there was someone else behind us. She ranted, beeped her horn and waved her hands about, finally crossing herself in exasperation, which we did back to her! It was looking like we'd be settling in for a long stubborn haul until the man behind us gave in and we all backed out. Too funny.

There will be no internet in Kritsa so we may be offline for a few days.
Until then
Yasso
sue

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Photos Ayios Nicholas and Family



Antonious Papadoulis and Manny






















































Ayious Nicholas

We are just back from Ayious Nicholas which was about a 45 min drive through the mountains to another part of the coast. The scenery was amazing! Small white washed churches perched on hillsides, cloud covered mountain peaks and stunning views across the water. We walked along the water front and then ate too much at a fish restaurant (calamari, meat balls with cumin, snails, octopus and Greek salad). Afterwards we browsed some shops and heard all about the Papadoulis family that lives nearby in Kritsa. A shop owner knew the family well (apparently they are a big family here and well respected) and tried to find us some phone numbers but there were too many Papadoulis' in the phone book. At least we have the names in Greek so when we go to Kritsa tomorrow we can ask in the village. Cassie enjoyed herself - she seems to have grown up a bit more and is using a lot more words now, but not too much Greek! We drove home to sunset on the water, a feeling of nostalgia about Manny's family roots and what his grandfather went through to leave his home and move to Australia. We ran out of time to see Kritsa which is only 10km from Ayious Nicholas so we will go back tomorrow morning before lunch.

Last night's meal in the taverna was wonderful. We ate fava (mashed beans), cheese, tzatziki, pork and goat in a red wine sauce from the mountains. Yanni wanted Manny to have goat as he had been talking about it during the day. It was so tender, even Cassie liked it. It was so nice to be somewhere truly Greek. The village here is very touristy with a few too many lilly-legged English so we appreciated being away from the Irish bars and chips, egg and HP sauce menus. The taverna served wine in tumblers, with paper table cloths and a friendly cat prowling for scraps. Not a tourist in sight and just what we had been hoping for.

We managed to change all of our flights today and it's a nice feeling to relax in the knowledge that we are here for a week with no more airports and crazyness to deal with. The weather is still warm in the day but cooling off at night. We have both bought the obligatory tourist clothes of white cheese-cloth shirts and we are putting them to good use. Manny definitely has his Greek Adonis look happening :)

Kali Nichta
Sue

Change of Plans

Yasoo!
We have decided that we will not be going to Kastelorizo. It requires another 4 flights in a short space of time before then tackling the long haul flight to Perth. It seems to take us a couple of days to recover from flying and Cassie isn't a big fan of long days of travel which makes things difficult. Both Sue and I are not feeling 100% after recovering from colds so we thought we would stay the rest of our trip in Crete and enjoy some relaxation. I want to do some more research for the family tree, and there are so many beautiful villages to explore here (as well as the pool!). Yes, it is a shame, but we were a bit ambitious to try to see so much in three weeks. Next time we'll go direct to Kastelorizo and stay a few weeks there.

We have hired a car and this afternoon we are going to Ayious Nicholas which is where my grandfather is from.

Last night we had a wonderful dinner with Yanni and Maria in a traditional taverna - so much yummy food!

Manny Sue and Cassiana

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Video From Party Welcome Night

Lunch Time

Cassi is asleep. This morning we drove around a little with Yanni. Tonight at 5 we are meeting a Papadoulis in town. Right now Sue is lazing around the pool and is ordering a Greek Salad with chips.....Yummmmmmmmm I have to go. It is a beautiful day today after yesterdays rain. Summer is just hanging on at the moment.

Leave some comments so we know who is reading

Hey Sarah I hope you are okay.....miss you heaps. What have you been up to.....Lots of Love Daddy Sue and Cassiana.

PS Do you want anything from Greece. Meghan wants a soccer shirt. What would you like???

Monday, September 22, 2008

Pigeon English

It seems we have fallen victim to the inevitable pigeon English syndrome that takes over when attempting ongoing communication with anyone who doesn't completely understand you. Guidelines include:

1. No use big words. Speak sloowwwly and LOUDLY.
2. Wave hands in air. It help you understand
3. Say 'ehhhhh' when try think of new easy word
4. Make Greeki accent for English words. Maybe this sounds a little French

We find ourselves speaking like this to each other and even Cassie who looks at us in bewilderment.

Yasoo
Sula and Manouli

Sunrise Apartments





This is Maria Yanni's wife with Cassiana sitting next to the pool. Maria cooked up a storm for us last night. Yanni took all the credit.....Sounds very Papadoulis. Maria cooked the mousaka, the salads the chips, the pasta, the rabbit which was to die for, everything but the meat . It was a great night !!! . Aris, Sophias husband worked the bar. It was a huge Glendi !!!

First Photos of Crete







Hi All I have no idea of the time in Greece but it is the middle of the night. By some atmospheric condition or because it is late, but somehow my remote devise has picked up a signal and I am on the net...... Okay next trick is to try and load some photos before it goes. This is like the 90's on the nett.....very slow and unpredictable. Everyone cross your fingers
So that worked.....first photo is Sue and Yanni my cousin. Second photo is Yanni cooking up a storm.
You should have tasted these steaks....also Marias( Yannis Wife) roasted rabbitt!!!.Third photo is Maria, Me Yanni and Sue. The last photo is the Vegatable Shop Owners from Porta Helli. Sue and Karen use to buy the vegetables from this family. They made a huge fuss of Sue when she turned up.

While Everyone Sleeps

Just a quick update...........It is 10:45 pm here Monday night. Cassi and Sue are asleep and my cousins have gone home. It was a very relaxed day today as Sue said. It was great catching up with Yanni and family. Yanni is taking me to meet a Michael Papadoulis tommorrow who will help me complete the family tree that I have been working on.
Sorry about the lack of photos but I cant get my computer to work here so I can upload them.

We went into the village today ( around 100 metres away). Beautiful little church and lots of coffee shops,shops and restaurants. The roads are so narrow( meant for donkeys) and yet they still drive their cars through sometimes with millimetres to spare. The village is 10 minutes from the Port and is situated on the side of a hill. The vista is breath taking. Behind us huge hills below us the ocean. The smells, the life, the food, the little churches which are everywhere.......I just love it !!!

Just spoke to Meghan who is in Rome!!!.....She is having a ball and really loves Italy. She said she ate the best pizza she has ever tasted.....

Anyway I will go now.....Hopefully tommorrow we can upload some photos

Yassoo!!!

PS I will never drink raki again!!!!! ............ever.

Avrio Methavrio

Yasoo!
Here is our long awaited update. Sorry for taking so long and thank you for your emails and comments. We haven't been able to respond as Manny can receive emails on his blackberry phone but hasn't been able to connect his computer to reply. I am typing this on Sunrise Apartments office computer so it may be difficult to send more - but do not worry we are all fine.

Anyway, here we are in Crete, and enjoying some long awaited r&r. In fact we have slipped easily into the Greek mentality of avrio methavrio - not tomorrow, the day after. All three of us have enjoyed long afternoon siestas of 2 to 3 hours and we think we'll continue! The journey here was long and tiring. The ferry from Porto Heli was delayed by an hour due to bad weather - we boarded feeling a little concerned for the rough seas that lay ahead, but we had found our sea legs and all was ok. In Athens we fought the other 100 or so passengers for a taxi, headed back to the hotel to collect some luggage and then on to the airport for the flight to Crete. The plane was also delayed by an hour so we finally arrived in Crete around 9.30pm. Needless to say Cassie is refining the art of sleeping anywhere - ferries, cars, planes, in the stroller. We were very grateful to receive such a warm welcome from Yanni, Manny's cousin who came to collect us from the airport. Yesterday we spent all day at the hotel, Manny catching up on news and enjoying being part of his extended family. Yanni's wife Maria, their son Nicko and son in law Aris all work in the business. Last night they put on a big celebration in our honour, and we ate mousakka and drank raki (translation: metholated spirits on ice!). Needless to say Manny is quite sure he'll never drink it again!

Today we have laid low, enjoying a big sleep. Now we are about to go to the town and explore. The weather has gone a bit Melbourne - hot sunshine one minute, raining the next. We even ended up buying an umbrella, which doubled in price once the rain started!

Manny and Cassie are waiting for me so I shall be off. Manny will try to load some photos soon, especially so the Paps can see the family.

Karen - happy 10th wedding anniversary to you and Vaughan. I know I haven't got the date right, but the computer connection plays havoc with communications. We are thinking of you and hope you'd planned something nice.

Cassie is getting demanding so away we go. Love to all!

Sue and Manny

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Missing Meghan and Sarah

Meghan is off to Italy for three weeks with her school St Marys. We are missing Meghan and Sarah so much. Love you heaps.....travel safe Meghan....Ciao!!!

Images of Porto Helli































It was great to get out of Athens.......Dont get me wrong for those non Greeks reading this if you get to Greece then Athens is a must but it really is a big somewhat dirty city. The pressure is on all of the and night. The traffic dosnt stop.!!Other than being ill Porto Helli is a welcome relief. As Sue said below what you imagine Greece to be Anyway here are some shots of Porto Helli and our fabulous lunch!!!....Truely and amazing lunch and house.

Destination Porto Heli




So, here we are in Porto Heli, the fishing village that to me holds so many amazing memories from my 20s! We arrived yesterday after a crazy taxi ride to the port of Piraeus and then a three hour journey by the Flying Cat high speed ferry via Paros, Hydra, Spetses and then Porto Heli. It seems the Greek sea faring genes of the Kailis family skipped some generations including Manny's - he took a while to find his sea legs in the less than rough seas. No major damage done though (although we wont be taking a kiaiki to Spetses as I had originally planned!). In fact it was the start of a bit of illness all round. Manny has been feeling like he's coming down with the flu and Cassie has had a temperature, which has meant the two of them have been pretty much hotel bound until this afternoon (Cassie is on the mend now Yia Yia and Nanna...). Finally, we all got out today to join the Mavroleon's for lunch. They are the family I used to work for 12 years ago here and they were generous enough to invite us over. They have a new villa called Axinos and spend 4-5 months here each summer entertaining. Mr Mav is now 81 and Mrs Mav is 65. It was fantastic to see them -they were so welcoming and it was bizarre to be sitting down to lunch with them while someone else waited on us (I was once the waitress for them!). Even Cassie felt the magnitude of her surroundings and was very well behaved. The villa is like something from Vogue Homes and Living - amazig views over the ocean with a pool right in front. Mr Mav entertained us with his history lessons about Greece, not to mention the fact they'd only this week had dinner with the former Crown Prince of Greece who lives nearby. Anyway, it was a fantastic lunch and I was so glad to share the Mav experience with Manny and Cassie.

So, our little Porto Heli has grown up - now about twice the size in fact with countless cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, private apartments and new houses. There are now 20-30 private villas around Hinitsa, where only 12 years ago there was 5 or 6. Still, some things don't change and we have caught up with old friends including fruit and veg Takis, his wife and two daughters. Their shop is going better than ever. It's so nice to be somewhere so Greek and still see old friends. Most of the tourists here now are wealthy Greeks so I'm rapidly trying to brush up on the language skills as English is rarely spoken.

Tomorrow we will take a drive inland and back to the coast to a town called Ermioni, then it's back to Athens and then a flight to Crete for stage 2 of the Greek Odyssey. Stay tuned!

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

The View From the Roof

I am attempting to load a video. Now remember people although the Greeks are the centre of all knowledge our technology is not good here in Athens!!...This is taking a long time If it loads it will be a minor miracle.

It has now taken an hour and a half and it is still loading. I hope everyone enjoys this.

Please leave some comments so we know that more than two people other than Desi and Meghan are reading the blogg.

Athens Photos
















































It is funny when you are on holidays or could it be Greece that you loose all sense of time. We went to the Plaka for dinner again this evening. When we came home we put Cassi to sleep and while we were doing this I layed down waiting for her to sleep with the intention of getting up to load these photos. Next minute it is 2:00am in the morning. So while Cassi and Sue sleep I have been downloading photos and then compressing them for the web. I hope you enjoy these. We certuanly had fun making them for you!!!........keep the comments comming
The photos are all easy to identify. The only one you might be wondering about is the fish markets