Saturday, October 4, 2008
Farewell Greece
Yesterday we walked around Athens for hours and found our way to amazing ancient ruins of Agora. It is a massive area in the foothills of the Acropolis with so many statues and buildings dating back to the 4th centuray BC. It must also be the most peaceful place in Athens and we enjoyed some time there in the quiet taking in the majesty of our surroundings. We had our last few gyros (lamb and chicken in pita bread with tzatsiki, tomatoe and onions), and treated Cassie to an icecream cone (she loves the waffle cones but doesn't care much for the ice cream) before bed.
This morning was a final dash into the Plaka so Manny could buy the particular variety of worry beads he likes. Athens is still heaving despite it being October and the end of the tourism season. I think it's now many Greeks who come to the capital after their own busy season has finished. The number of people eating out at the plaka last night was amazing - thousands, enjoying the final warm evenings before the weather really changes.
We are looking forward to being home and to seeing everyone, especially Sarah tomorrow night, who will share in our stories and gifts before anyone else. We spoke to her just now, as well as Meghan who is in Pisa and will travel to Venice tomorrow. She too has been regaling us with stories of the food she has eaten, so it seems a strict diet all round when life gets back to normal in Perth.
This is the final post so thank you to everyone has followed our trip and left comments which have entertained us and reminded us of home.
We look forward to seeing you in the coming days and weeks
Manny, Sue and Cassie
Friday, October 3, 2008
More pics







More images of Kritsa and the friendly people we met





Farewell to Crete, Yasoo Athens
Cassie and I left around 9pm so Cassie could get to bed ahead of our flight to Athens, while Manny stayed another hour or so and enjoyed some more raki and wine from Chania. He was quite sad on his return - we both felt so welcomed and part of the family so it was an emotional farewell. We really do hope the children come to visit us one day.
And so to Athens. The flight from Crete was fine, although it was a small plane and Cassie wasn't fond of the take off. She adjusted quickly to the noise and was fine on landing. We found our luggage and a taxi and were feeling rather pleased with ourselves for the lack of drama on the journey, when things took a strange turn, well actually the taxi took a strange turn. We were stuck in traffic for about 15 minutes when the driver announced that there was a demonstration in Syntagma square (central Athens) and the road had been closed. He told us that no cars were able to drive to the road of our hotel and the best he could do was drop us a short walk away. He promised it was the only solution and that the walk was less than 300 metres. We believed him of course as we had no reason not to. So, we set off - Manny lugging a suitcase on wheels, as well as Cassie's 15kg bag over his shoulder, along with another 3 hand luggage pieces. I pushed Cassie in the pram with my suitcase on wheels pulled behind me, and our hand luggage strapped to the pram. What a sight we must have made - trapsing down the footpath, the suitcases unsteady and us both breaking into a hot and bothered sweat. I had previously noticed the lack of ramps on road crossings having dealt with the pram on our last visit, but the constant small and not so small steps, pot holes and uneven surfaces really came into their own on this journey. We made it across Syntagma Square only to find cars driving on the other side with no problem. It seemed our taxi driver had merely become bored of waiting in the traffic and decided to kick us out! We asked about the location of our hotel at the first hotel we came to, but they shrugged their shoulders in ignorance. When Manny asked the door man at the next 5 star hotel and he also dismissed us, my temper flared. I spat every word of Greek I could come up with at him, telling his his taxi drivers were the worst in the world and we had been left stranded with 60kg of luggage and a baby and no one to help us. He quickly ran off and found someone who suddenly did know where our hotel was and who offered to store our luggage to make our journey easier. I declined his offer and thanked him for his assistance (albeit delayed). We walked another 2 or 3 blocks, asking for more directions, struggling with wheels up footpaths and steps, crazy scooter drivers and unforgiving pedestrains who push their way through regardless, until we found our hotel - probably about a kilometre from where the taxi left us. Red-faced and panting we checked in. Thank goodness everyone at the hotel was incredibly helpful, taking our bags, giving us a free drink at the bar and doing their best to help us recover from our ordeal.
So, welcome back to Athens! Afterwards, lying in the cool of the hotel room, I laughed hard at our experience, but Manny is yet to see the funny side (give him a few more days I think). We had dinner in the plaka last night and this morning picked up a few more souveniers. We also found our way in to the seedier part of town to the fresh fruit markets and stalls selling dried beans, herbs and all manner of produce. We found what must be the biggest church in Athens and marvelled at the fresco paintings and massive icons. We have also found an icon shop and hope to order some when we get home including one of Saint Susannah which can't be found in Australia. Tonight will no doubt be another plaka dinner before heading to the airport tomorrow.
It has been a wonderful experience and the time spent in Crete with family made the travelling worthwhile. I'm pleased we decided to give up the trip to Kastelorizo, and we know now how we'll plan things next time. Manny will no doubt upload some final photos before we leave. We are looking forward to coming home - we'll be there around 3.30pm on Sunday.
love
Sue, Manny and Cassie
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
the long lost cousin
Happy birthday to Meghan! We spoke to her today in Italy - now a 15 year old! She is having a fantastic time despite having a cold. We sang happy birthday to her most of the way home in the car today in her honour (and to keep Cassie entertained...) We miss Meg and Sarah heaps. Sarah is in Sydney and has been experiencing jewish traditions with some friends there - we look forward to hearing all about it!
We are back from Kritsa and enjoying our last few days in Crete. We are leaving Crete on Thursday to spend 2 nights in Athens and break up the journey to Australia. It feels like the end of the holiday and the end of summer (deep sigh...) as the days start to cool and the sun is weakening. The village is slowly emptying and our hotel will close in 2 weeks. At least there are some bargains in the shops! I hope everyone is in need of some hand woven linen because we have a suitcase full.....
Our weekend in Kritsa was a definite highlight. It was so nice to be in the mountains where time seems slow and everyone has a smile and a 'kali mera' (good morning) for you - some even say it first! The lunch in the village of Kroustas with Yanni, Maria and Yanni's cousin Mareka was superb. The goat was truly amazing - Manny's right, it did taste of all kinds of herbs but perhaps that's because goats here are fattened on wild herbs in the mountains. We started the meal with goats cheese, bread and dolmades (some wild vegetable stuffed with rice abnd herbs) and then mountainous plates of pasta and goat. It was more than filling, all washed down with local red wine. The villagers were pleased to see us - the old women on the streets gave Cassie freshly cracked almonds, and one lady even ran inside and returned with a bag of spanikoptia (spinach pie), cheese, bread and cashew nuts for her when she understood that we were Papadoulis from Australia. Cassie thought it was great - and ate had more than her share of nuts and other goodies. She enjoyed a three hour sleep afterwards, and somehow we managed to eat a little more at dinner.
We left Kritsa a little slowly, wishing we could stay longer (although Manny was relieved that we were away from the linen shops!) and were already making plans to return in a few years. We hadn't met any Papadoulis' although we knew they lived in the town. Not to worry, we would track them down another time. Manny bought a wooden chess set from a shop selling goods made from olive wood. When we returned to Koutoulafari I opened the bag and saw the business card in the bottom - and the name on it was Dimitri Papadoulis! Manny had been into that shop several times and had left it to the last minute to buy the chess set - from the only English woman in town who had a job there. She was probably the only person we hadn't told our name, and now we'ded discover the shop owner is a Papadoulis. The woman had told us it was her day off the following day, so perhaps Dimitri would be working in her place? We decided to return one last time this morning in the hope of to meet Dimitri.
We left early, stopping on the way at the 500 year old monastry of Saint George which sits on the mountain side with spectacular views to the ocean. We arrived in Kritsa around 10am, only to find the wood shop closed! We went for a coffee (and bought another table cloth!) and then found the shop had opened soon after. Dimitri is related - he is tall and said all the Papadoulis' were tall people (perhaps this is where Manny, Meg and Sarah get their height from?) and with blue eyes (now this must be where Bapou gets his pale blue eyes from!). He is 39 and has one brother, but other siblings died as children. His father is still alive and he is going to ask about the family so we can complete more of the family tree. He was genuinely pleased to meet us and wished we had found him earlier so he could spend more time. We have exchanged email addresses so hopefully this is the start of ongoing contact. It was so nice to have found some family - and wonderful to see Manny so excited about tracking down a long lost cousin!
So now we are winding down towards home. We have taken back the car hire so are walking everywhere, which is fine as everything in the village is nearby. Tomorrow night we are going to Yanni and Maria's place for a farewell dinner. They have been more than generous and we look forward to welcoming their children to Australia sometime in the future. Maria won't fly so Yanni and Maria won't make it to Australia, but their children are talking seriously about making the trip, which would be fantastic. We have some serious hospitality to provide!
It is such a shame to leave when we are feeling so at home. Cassie is into a wonderful Hellenic routine of sleeping until late in the afternoon (in fact we all are!), allowing us time in the evening to enjoy dinner out. She is often into bed around 9pm, so it may take some re-training when we return to get her back into the Perth way of things.
Thanks for all the comments - keep them coming!
Sue, Manny and Cassie
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Sunday In Kritsa
We decided to go to Church today. Yesterday we went to the Church and introduced ourselves to the Priest. We asked what time church was and he said between 7-9 am. We woke late at 8:00am but were in church by 8:30. I thought we would catch the last half hour. However we werent late as Church didnt finish until 10:00am!. The priets had sold us the dummy!!
Inside there were around 50 people. There were 5 men including the priest and the rest were old women. Sue would have been the youngest lady, besides a young family who came late and had obviously christen their child recently and took communion.
Afterwards we walked straight accross the road and had a coffee. Eventually the priest came and had coffee in the same coffee shop.
Around 11:00am Yanni and Maria arrived and we went to Yanni's cousin place Maria. She has a beautiful house over looking the village right at the top of the mountain. She came with us to lunch in the next village. The next village has not been touched by tourism at all and is very tradional. Old ladies sit in the streets and crack almonds open. Old men sit and play backgammon. Yanni told us how they live very simple lives and have a few goats, grow their own vegetables or go into the mountians and pick wild fruit( apple and pears). I foget the name of the village but will post it tommorow night when I find out.
It was in this village that we had this amazing goat for lunch. What they do is boil the goat and then bring the goat on a plate. With the broth they boil up rough pieces of pasta and then finish it with a cheese( which no one would tell me the name off) . As you eat the pieces of goat you also enjoy the pasta coated with cheese).... I asked Yanni if the water had herbs in it but he insisted it was just salty water. The flavour of the goat was amazing and I am sure their were herbs in the water. However Yanni kept insisting it was good goat. He believes that we wouldnt have goat like this in Australia. I think he is probably right. However I am sure it was flavoured with herbs............oh well we will never know. Suffice to say it was an amazing and special meal. The village was a very special place further up the mountains in a little valley of sorts. I can not describe it better and hopefully Sue will be able to describe it better for you later.
After we went back to Kritsa and Yanni drove around and showed me old Papadoulis houses and where he grew up. I met a man who would have been 70/80 who operated the oldest coffee shop in Krista. Before him his grandmother use to run it!!...He told me that anyone who knew anything about our Papadoulis family had long since passed away. The Papadoulis in the village cant remember much passed their own parents and they certianly dont know anything about their great grandparents. I am going to have to return and spend some time here ( like a month) and go through the births/deaths register of the village to be able to complete the family tree.
After lunch Yanni returned home and I had a sleep with Cassiana.Sue went for a walk through the village.
This evening we went out and had a few mezzi ( light snacks) as we had such a big lunch.
That was our day today. Tommorrow I will place some photos.
It has been raining all afternoon and cloud has almost covered the village. We are in the heavens here.
Good Night from Kritsa
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Saturday in Kritsa
Sue is too tired. It was a long day today. We were up early to pack and then we caught the last quater of the AFL grand final at around 8:30am. We then left for Kritsa in the pouring rain. It was diffficult driving, which Sue handle very well. Sue will not let me drive since she has had more experience than I at Eurpoean left drive.
Arriving in Kritsa it was wet and a little cold but then the sun came out in the late afternoon. We went and visted a number of Churches and while Cassi and Sue slept I visted a few tavernas!!!!.
We went to the "Papadoulis Tavern" tonight but it dosnt belong to the Papadoulis family any more. That was a dissappointment but the food nevertheless was sensational.
Back to our rent room and we have had a few ouzos with the family that own the house.
Sue has gone to bed an another day is over. Tommorrow we will go with Yanni to the next village.
Good Night from Kritsa.
Love to all
Manny Sue Cassiana.
PS Theo great to speak to you this afternoon. Enjoy Lamonts!!
Kritsa: Sue and Cassie Sleep
The village knows that there is a Papadoulis in town as when I sat down the man asked if I was the Papadoulis from Australia. News spreads here faster than the internet. Speaking of interent I have a faint signal so hopefully I will be able to send this post.
I had my little emotional moment just a little while ago. Just thinking that my grandfather walked these streets and how well the Papadoulis are known in the village. Although tourist are here they only come for day trips. There is no major hotel here so it is not yet spoilt. I think the tour buses come here because it is the last true Creten village. Hopefully Sue will write up a post when she wakes up.
Keep the comments coming we love reading them and it makes the effort of getting on line and up loading photos worth while.
Leah and Les we got to buy a house here!!.....Although apprently there is a block of land that belonged to Bapou which no one has claimed. I will do the research.
Les and Matt the Raki here is sensational.....I will bring some home !!!!!! The mix it with honey and some herbs...mmmmmmmmmmm
Got to go
Love to all
Friday, September 26, 2008
More Kritsa
Kritsa
Yanni and Maria are meeting us in Kritsa on Sunday morning around 11am to take us to the next village for lunch. They know of a very good taverna offering nothing but traditional Cretan food so we will try it. It's so wonderful to have family here who love to take us to these out of the way places we would never find otherwise. Of course we also want to sample Papadoulis Taverna just before Kritsa! Manny has a photo of the sign with one of the villagers standing in front - which he will upload.
After we returned to Koutouloufari (the village of our hotel) we slept and then went down to the port of Hersonnisis for an early dinner. The highlight of this meal was saganaki (fried cheese), but the calamari and dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) were also excellent, not to mention Cassie's favourite Tzatsiki. This morning we returned to the waterfront for coffee and this afternoon we plan to explore another nearby village which is home to Aris, Yanni's son in law. I'm becoming adept at driving the narrow roads built pre car when donkeys carrying hay bales were the widest thing to use them. Yesterday a Greek woman drove into our path and then waited for us to reverse out of her way, only we couldn't because there was someone else behind us. She ranted, beeped her horn and waved her hands about, finally crossing herself in exasperation, which we did back to her! It was looking like we'd be settling in for a long stubborn haul until the man behind us gave in and we all backed out. Too funny.
There will be no internet in Kritsa so we may be offline for a few days.
Until then
Yasso
sue
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Ayious Nicholas
Last night's meal in the taverna was wonderful. We ate fava (mashed beans), cheese, tzatziki, pork and goat in a red wine sauce from the mountains. Yanni wanted Manny to have goat as he had been talking about it during the day. It was so tender, even Cassie liked it. It was so nice to be somewhere truly Greek. The village here is very touristy with a few too many lilly-legged English so we appreciated being away from the Irish bars and chips, egg and HP sauce menus. The taverna served wine in tumblers, with paper table cloths and a friendly cat prowling for scraps. Not a tourist in sight and just what we had been hoping for.
We managed to change all of our flights today and it's a nice feeling to relax in the knowledge that we are here for a week with no more airports and crazyness to deal with. The weather is still warm in the day but cooling off at night. We have both bought the obligatory tourist clothes of white cheese-cloth shirts and we are putting them to good use. Manny definitely has his Greek Adonis look happening :)
Kali Nichta
Sue
Change of Plans
We have decided that we will not be going to Kastelorizo. It requires another 4 flights in a short space of time before then tackling the long haul flight to Perth. It seems to take us a couple of days to recover from flying and Cassie isn't a big fan of long days of travel which makes things difficult. Both Sue and I are not feeling 100% after recovering from colds so we thought we would stay the rest of our trip in Crete and enjoy some relaxation. I want to do some more research for the family tree, and there are so many beautiful villages to explore here (as well as the pool!). Yes, it is a shame, but we were a bit ambitious to try to see so much in three weeks. Next time we'll go direct to Kastelorizo and stay a few weeks there.
We have hired a car and this afternoon we are going to Ayious Nicholas which is where my grandfather is from.
Last night we had a wonderful dinner with Yanni and Maria in a traditional taverna - so much yummy food!
Manny Sue and Cassiana
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Lunch Time
Leave some comments so we know who is reading
Hey Sarah I hope you are okay.....miss you heaps. What have you been up to.....Lots of Love Daddy Sue and Cassiana.
PS Do you want anything from Greece. Meghan wants a soccer shirt. What would you like???
Monday, September 22, 2008
Pigeon English
1. No use big words. Speak sloowwwly and LOUDLY.
2. Wave hands in air. It help you understand
3. Say 'ehhhhh' when try think of new easy word
4. Make Greeki accent for English words. Maybe this sounds a little French
We find ourselves speaking like this to each other and even Cassie who looks at us in bewilderment.
Yasoo
Sula and Manouli
Sunrise Apartments

This is Maria Yanni's wife with Cassiana sitting next to the pool. Maria cooked up a storm for us last night. Yanni took all the credit.....Sounds very Papadoulis. Maria cooked the mousaka, the salads the chips, the pasta, the rabbit which was to die for, everything but the meat . It was a great night !!! . Aris, Sophias husband worked the bar. It was a huge Glendi !!!
First Photos of Crete




While Everyone Sleeps
Sorry about the lack of photos but I cant get my computer to work here so I can upload them.
We went into the village today ( around 100 metres away). Beautiful little church and lots of coffee shops,shops and restaurants. The roads are so narrow( meant for donkeys) and yet they still drive their cars through sometimes with millimetres to spare. The village is 10 minutes from the Port and is situated on the side of a hill. The vista is breath taking. Behind us huge hills below us the ocean. The smells, the life, the food, the little churches which are everywhere.......I just love it !!!
Just spoke to Meghan who is in Rome!!!.....She is having a ball and really loves Italy. She said she ate the best pizza she has ever tasted.....
Anyway I will go now.....Hopefully tommorrow we can upload some photos
Yassoo!!!
PS I will never drink raki again!!!!! ............ever.
Avrio Methavrio
Here is our long awaited update. Sorry for taking so long and thank you for your emails and comments. We haven't been able to respond as Manny can receive emails on his blackberry phone but hasn't been able to connect his computer to reply. I am typing this on Sunrise Apartments office computer so it may be difficult to send more - but do not worry we are all fine.
Anyway, here we are in Crete, and enjoying some long awaited r&r. In fact we have slipped easily into the Greek mentality of avrio methavrio - not tomorrow, the day after. All three of us have enjoyed long afternoon siestas of 2 to 3 hours and we think we'll continue! The journey here was long and tiring. The ferry from Porto Heli was delayed by an hour due to bad weather - we boarded feeling a little concerned for the rough seas that lay ahead, but we had found our sea legs and all was ok. In Athens we fought the other 100 or so passengers for a taxi, headed back to the hotel to collect some luggage and then on to the airport for the flight to Crete. The plane was also delayed by an hour so we finally arrived in Crete around 9.30pm. Needless to say Cassie is refining the art of sleeping anywhere - ferries, cars, planes, in the stroller. We were very grateful to receive such a warm welcome from Yanni, Manny's cousin who came to collect us from the airport. Yesterday we spent all day at the hotel, Manny catching up on news and enjoying being part of his extended family. Yanni's wife Maria, their son Nicko and son in law Aris all work in the business. Last night they put on a big celebration in our honour, and we ate mousakka and drank raki (translation: metholated spirits on ice!). Needless to say Manny is quite sure he'll never drink it again!
Today we have laid low, enjoying a big sleep. Now we are about to go to the town and explore. The weather has gone a bit Melbourne - hot sunshine one minute, raining the next. We even ended up buying an umbrella, which doubled in price once the rain started!
Manny and Cassie are waiting for me so I shall be off. Manny will try to load some photos soon, especially so the Paps can see the family.
Karen - happy 10th wedding anniversary to you and Vaughan. I know I haven't got the date right, but the computer connection plays havoc with communications. We are thinking of you and hope you'd planned something nice.
Cassie is getting demanding so away we go. Love to all!
Sue and Manny
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Missing Meghan and Sarah
Images of Porto Helli





Destination Porto Heli


So, our little Porto Heli has grown up - now about twice the size in fact with countless cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels, private apartments and new houses. There are now 20-30 private villas around Hinitsa, where only 12 years ago there was 5 or 6. Still, some things don't change and we have caught up with old friends including fruit and veg Takis, his wife and two daughters. Their shop is going better than ever. It's so nice to be somewhere so Greek and still see old friends. Most of the tourists here now are wealthy Greeks so I'm rapidly trying to brush up on the language skills as English is rarely spoken.
Tomorrow we will take a drive inland and back to the coast to a town called Ermioni, then it's back to Athens and then a flight to Crete for stage 2 of the Greek Odyssey. Stay tuned!
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
The View From the Roof
I am attempting to load a video. Now remember people although the Greeks are the centre of all knowledge our technology is not good here in Athens!!...This is taking a long time If it loads it will be a minor miracle.
It has now taken an hour and a half and it is still loading. I hope everyone enjoys this.
Please leave some comments so we know that more than two people other than Desi and Meghan are reading the blogg.
Athens Photos






